Day 43-45 (That's a Wrap)

June 22, 2022

I’m done! I’m a bit sad as I didn’t get that perfect climatic ending point, but it was absolutely the right choice for now. I look forward to going back to Norway, and the Lofoten Islands. However, 2,400 miles isn’t bad and it’s my longest tour yet! My last one was 1,200 miles. I’m planning to write a larger reflection on cycling touring in a couple days to aid my future efforts. There were many things I forgot from my last tour I remembered later or small things I know I’ll forget in a future tour.

My body was really worn out. I knew I needed at least half a week close to a town to recover along with repairing all the mechanical issues that had cropped up. I’d been plague but digestive problems four several days as well which wasn’t adding to it. I was about to head into areas less densely populated with my bike in the worst shape of the trip.

It was in trying to find a place to rest for a couple days that I made my decision. Anything within a several days ride was going to be in the $150-200 a night range and wouldn’t have what I needed to repair. I considered making it to Oslo and attempting it but the costs were prohibitive. I also have a wedding coming up and was feeling a bit homesick. Excuses.

I found a trip out of Copenhagen that was reasonably priced. I biked down to Langesund on Day 43, backtracking much of the way to catch the ferry to Hirtshals.

The ferry was surprisingly roughy for a clear day. Winds were in excess of 25 knots for most of the trip.

The clear water before the ferry terminal Before terminal My Biker Crew

In Hirtshals I found a campground and then booked a train to Copenhagen from Hjørring with a transfer in Aalborg. Unfortunately, I didn’t think they would fill up and I also didn’t know that instead of booking an extra seat you must book a specific cycle reservation. This can only be done on the DSB machines or by calling not via the app. I slept poorly, mostly laying in my tent with continued digestive issues.

In the morning I took a victory photo on the beach. Victory

I biked to Hjørring early with the hopes of reserving a cycle spot. When I arrived they were all booked. After waiting on hold with DSB I got through and the helpful person on the other end found a spot but it involved leaving immediately.

The train ride was uneventful aside from some scowls for the biking taking up space. I got off one stop early ahead of my transfer in Aalborg but luckily was able to bike to the next station in time.

The strangest part was moving so quickly. The sense of anything faster than bike speed was disorienting.

I made it to Copenhagen Central to some mixed rain and set off for the Airbnb I’d booked for two days in Vanløse. This would give me time to figure out all the bike packaging ahead of my flight.

I’d got a last-minute room that someone had canceled for quite cheap ($33 a night). The host was a unique fellow and we fell into conversation before I had to wander for some pizza he recommended. My impressions of Copenhagen were positive.

The next day I slept in later than I had in ages. I dragged myself to the local DIY store (Silvan) for bubble wrap, tape, and zip ties. I could not find pipe insulation. I went to bike shops after that to hunt down a bike box. I eventually found one but it was oddly very, very large. The same width as a typical bike box but up to my chin instead of my waist and far too long.

I passed a near lake with birds (Damhusen?). Lake with birds  I schlepped it on my back for a twenty minute walk precariously turning sideways so as not to push strollers into traffic or take out a cyclist.

My host let me use the covered patio area which made the process much better. It rained on and off which would have made completing the process on the sidewalk as I’d planned challenging.

It took a long time. The patio had six cats with four of them toddling kitten not a month old. One really enjoyed standing on my shoes as I was pull parts of the bike that could result in me punching it into the ground or dropping something heavy. It slowed me down but was cute as hell. My multi tool worked ok but I couldn’t apply enough torque to my pedals with my short wrench to get them off. Luckily, it being Copenhagen there was a bike shop maybe 100 feet away that let me use their pedal wrench to break them free. One and only assembly action shot

I cut the box down drastically to be a bit more reasonably sized. There was no way I’d be able to fit it into a taxi in its original size nor be able to provide enough padding to adequately protect my bike. It came together in the end. Bike box Sunset outside my assembly studio  The weather parted. My host bought me some shawarma which was very hospitable of him and we talked about our respective days. While a small task, it took an entire day and I’m quite glad I set the time aside.

I extended my stay an additional day. While I was leaving early in the morning my original plan of just hanging out in the airport starting in the evening was a “broke ass decision” as my partner would say. I also booked a bike tour in the morning as they’re a great way to be handheld through the major sites of a city.

Simultaneously, I’d been corresponding with an ex-coworker’s son who had lived in Copenhagen for ten years. I didn’t know what to expect but we agreed to meet that afternoon.

The bike tour hit all the highlights and was incredibly easy to get to by metro. The metro doesn’t have many lines and is very frequent. Bike tour kicks off Fredrickshaven voyeurism A modern building Something royal Fountain near Anglican church. Some Norse myth. Marble church  I won’t name them aside from saying all of these would likely be mentioned in the google results of “things to do in Copenhagen”. It wasn’t a social bike tour which surprised me a bit.

Afterward I met up with Christoffer and he showed me around town including a deeper dive into Freetown Christiania. We got a beer, and a couple more. Tuborg always. It was great to talk to someone who had the same base life experience (American High School), but was well-integrated to be able to give some perspective on the cultural things. And generally just a good dude with which to chat. I was expecting a short, awkward beer but the conversation flowed and we hung out for several hours.

Beer and a stroll

From there I decided to walk back to get a better feel for the town. Due to my inevitable navigational foibles it took me about two hours.

I got snacks and candies to bring back home. I tried to sleep and checked the taxi. I left at 3 AM for the airport. The taxi driver was really keen on explaining his sexual conquests in detail apropos nothing, but he grabbed me a baggage cart so it balances out.

Lugging a bike box is a hassle especially through a busy airport. After some confusion and waiting I got my bike box checked in and got on a plane to Warsaw for my connecting flight home.

I’m writing this on the plane. I’m heading to Canada next week for a trip in the Gulf Islands for which I am quite excited.

I still would like to do some more bike touring and will. I’m thinking the Trans Ecuadorian Trail and then connecting that with some exploration further south in Patagonia. Regardless, I now have a better idea what I need to bike tour in more remote area.

What a fun trip. Good cycling. Good people.

This map includes the train ride



Written by Matt Pendergraft , musing on technology and random travelogue things