Day 35 (To The Tip)

June 11, 2022

A glorious, transcendental day. I awoke to my alarm as I said I wanted breakfast at 8 AM and would sleep past that if not nudged. I’m still not a morning person. I leisured through breakfast which was a bread basket, hardboiled eggs, juice, and coffee. Ironically, to me only, with the exception of coffee that’s my diet for all other meals. I drink at least a liter of pineapple juice a day.

I ready for the road and successfully seated my tire with a bit of soap and some over inflation. I chatted with my hosts a bit more before I set off. I was pedaling with a full belly and a huge smile by 9:30 AM.

Goodbye to my generous hosts

The road was pretty direct today with a couple small detours to avoid traffic (which didn’t really exists so just strange routing). I did have a lot of miles, the most of the trip in fact, but it was achievable and I felt strong.

I passed a moose gate after skeptically following a grass path that supposedly connected to the primary “5” route I followed today. I crossed the Eurovelo Pilgrim’s Route and the North Sea Route.

I guess it's kinda a trail Moose warning  After the first 25 miles I took my first ferry from Egense to Hals. It was a couple minutes in length. Short ferry crossing

My new tires are much, much faster. I’m averaging about single mile per hour faster than I was on previous days. It feels like a super power. Paranoid of the past days I stopped and checked them once every thirty minutes.

Approximately sixty miles into the day I was sapped for energy. I had been eating carbs (I had a loaf of bread I was gnawing through plus these pizza things they sell in the bakery at Lidl I’ve come to love). I didn’t have any immediate sugars however so I waited for the energy to come back while staring at this giant jack. Giant jack

With my energy back I started down the road. The rain started up a small amount, then a bit, and suddenly all at once accompanied by thunder and flashes in the sky. I sprinted ahead looking for shelter and, a bit later than I would have preferred, found a school bus stop where I holed up. I’m very glad I didn’t ride through it.

Storm, taking shelter in bus stop

 It took about thirty minutes to pass.

Afterward I passed through Fredrickshaven, which I will return to tomorrow to get the ferry to Gothenburg, Sweden. Clear sky

 The weather fixed itself. The landscape fairly rapidly changed into vegetated dunes. The cycle path into Skagen was separated and fun. I’m looking forward to doing it again tomorrow.

Bike leaned against bench in dune habitat

In town I stopped at a supermarket and loaded up as I remembered that tomorrow in Hungry Sunday, when everything is closed.

I found my way to the campground, Poul Eeg Camping and set up my tent and unladened my bike.

Now for the fun part. At the tip of Skagen is where the North and Baltic Seas meet. I wanted to go to it. Strangely this was very final moment. While my trip isn’t over, I’ve covered a lot of ground and this is a physical manifestation of that.

I zipped down to the parking lot on my bike. I felt superhuman riding it without any bags. I parked it and walked into the dunes and along the beach. It was about 8 PM but it’s still a bit light out until midnight.

I ate some licorice, rice pudding and nectarines while staring off into the distance perched on some rocks. Looking out to the ocean, perched on some rocks

After talking with Ashley I made my why to the sand spot where the seas converged. Sun in the middle of a small penisula Tip of Jutland

I hiked back to my bike and road to camp. I grabbed my dinner (nuts, bread, pineapple juice) and forced my way into a conversation with two Swedish guys. We talked for about an hour. They (Anders and ???) both worked at Volvo for more than forty years and had been retired for around five years. We had the usual bike travel conversation but then started talking about their work at Volvo. One was a model maker (from wood!) and later transitioned to computer aided design whereas the other was a QA manager. Retired Volvo friends

It eventually got too cold for me. I took a shower and climbed into bed.

Tomorrow I’ll take a ferry to Gothenburg. My plan is to stay in the city. I’ll get in about 7 PM so this is a pseudo rest day.



Written by Matt Pendergraft , musing on technology and random travelogue things